The ladylike, inventive collection that Jason Wu presented at New York Fashion Week on Friday looked like a Jason Wu collection. That's a huge step for the 27-year-old designer whose name is almost always linked to first lady Michelle Obama's wardrobe.
There was plenty for Mrs. Obama to choose from on the runway - a sleeveless brown sheath splattered with gold leaf would look fantastic - but Wu needed to develop beyond a single famous client if he was going to have a long-lasting career.
The editors, buyers and stylists sitting along the plush, pink carpet (perhaps a lesson learned from last year's too slippery mirrored catwalk) saw that Wu has a delicate touch, especially with feathers and tulle, making several layers seem light and airy.
The only looks that weighed down the collection were the cocktail dresses with such big skirts, one was left wondering if there were hoops underneath.
"The red carpet romantic is searching for his edge," said stylist Mary Alice Stephenson. "The splattered paint, laser cut lace and caged tulle proved interesting but the feathered cocktail dresses stole the show."
Wu said he drew inspiration from the late Irving Penn, both the photographer's personal style as well as his work. That connection was best in a sepia-style rose print and a silver gelatin pailette skirt.
There also was a nod to the layered look that has emerged in the early part of Fashion Week, but Wu's spin was to wrap a whisper-weight feather dress in tulle.
The runway was so long that Wu took his bow running, from one end to the other to get to the photographers.
AP