By Kim Choe
Maori designers were centre stage during this vibrant show – all winners or runners up from the Miromoda Fashion Design Awards competition earlier this year.
See photos from the show.
The looks were diverse and modern. Some were more successful than others, but it is always fantastic to see innovative, artistic fashion thriving in New Zealand – a lot of which strongly references its Maori heritage.
How refreshing too, to see models look like they were proud to be showing off the creations, rather than the vacant, couldn’t-care-less looks and posture other designers seem to favour.
Poto Morgan’s opening piece featured towering shoulders and a velvet leotard, seemingly inspired by Lady Gaga. Her black dresses featured heavy layers, with tops embellished by shards of heavy wood. The models were almost birdlike in appearance.
Flax formed the basis of Marsh Ranginui’s collection. Painted and expertly woven into pleats and layers, the effect looked dramatic but not at all comfortable.
Pia Boutique’s garments had more obvious commercial appeal, with sheer tops and dresses featuring bright, psychedelic prints. Paired with matching leggings, the effect was striking.
A series of t-shirt prints came next, the first two by students of Wainuiomata High School. Koia Gray’s featured Japanese-inspired sketches of anonymous Maori women, and Olivia Edginton’s cute designs used half black, half white sheep to illustrate her mixed heritage.
The final t-shirt designs came from Hohepa Thompson, who courted controversy earlier this year with his portrayal of Maori activist Tame Iti looking like Osama bin Laden. This print made an appearance on the catwalk with its eyes blacked out, as if to protect Tame/Osama’s identity.
Christopher Huia-Woods played with texture and colour to create his looks. Tulle and feather-like fabrics in black and neon orange were worked into bold designs.
Shona Tawhiao sculpted flax into striking shapes for a futuristic look. The stiff bodices were contrasted with tulle skirts to make a stunning gown. One male model looked suspiciously like he had been duct-taped into his leather pants – whether intentionally or not, I wasn’t sure.
Dmonic Intent enjoyed their second outing at this year’s Fashion Week, after showing a full range in the New Generation show on Wednesday. True to form their clothes were dark, textured, and daring. Not to be worn without a good dose of attitude.
Monique Lynch’s neoprene-clad models were perhaps the most perplexing of the show. Wrapped in unwieldy grey and beige tiered coats and tight dresses, the models looked like they were off to work in a space-age science lab in the Arctic. Some clever workmanship has gone into making garments from such a challenging material, but the end result was unfortunately unflattering.
The show finished on a bright, pretty note with swimwear label Surface Too Deep, who have already made a name for themselves by retailing in Ruby boutiques. Paisleys and florals, sometimes used in combination, were fashioned into flattering, vintage-inspired suits. Thick, ruffled straps and high-waisted bottoms were trimmed with a tiny scalloped edging sure to be loved by many women.
Full NZ Fashion Week shows are available On Demand at TV3.co.nz/NZFW
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