By Imogen Crispe
Last night’s runway show was full of surprises – from models wearing just bras with skirts in Playtex, to the audience clapping for Trelise Cooper.
Overriding trends to the evening were below the knee skirts and dresses, velvet fabric and wool trench coats in bright colours. Of course since it was an autumn/winter show, it was still dominated by greys and blacks.
View the photogallery for images from the show
The show started with Caroline Sills’ collection of muted yet stylish corporate wear, brightened with maroon tights on each model and the odd nude or cream garment. There were school-girl collars, long-line cardis, pleated skirts and dresses – some below the knee – and a lot of wool and silk.
Taylor Boutique’s line began with Star Wars-style floor-length cream wool high-necked dresses, long fingerless gloves and knitted beanies with ear-flaps – something Princess Leia or Anakin Skywalker’s mother might have worn. Some dresses had long wool or silk trains. There was a lot of layering with monochrome jackets layered over long tops, dresses and skirts with uneven hems. The only hints of colour were a red belt, and the final outfit – a gorgeous bright orange velvet button-up cape.
Cute dresses, skirts, chiffon and midriff-baring crop tops dominated Celine Rita’s collection. A full-length nude chiffon button-down dress stood out as a chic 70s number. A top and dress looked strapless, but had pale long sleeves – very wearable for a winter party. Pastel blue cotton three-quarter trousers and a mini skirt were a summery sight. Teal chiffon looked sophisticated in both blouses and skirts. Red velvet featured in this line in a skirt, top and mini-dress. It was a brave move, but one which worked and was the first of many velvet pieces in the show.
Andrea Moore had a lovely range of warm wool or velvet coats in great colours – blue, lime-mustard and teal. Velvet also featured in a blue suit with a cropped jacket and a red shorts suit, which caught the eye. It was great to see pretty colours for autumn/winter and there were hints of florals too.
The stand-out line of the night was definitely Playtex, showing its bra range and simple skirts. It was refreshing to see beautiful, normal looking models with curves and varying heights. The first model wearing an electric pink bra received a clap from the audience, and got everyone talking. There were gold, white, navy and black bras, which looked great, all worn with high waisted skirts, except for the last model who wore sexy matching bra and knickers.
It was a bit of a shock to see the skinny models back for Max’s line, another quite drab-coloured line of casual and corporate wear. Splashes of grey leopard print in tights and hats spiced up the collection and merino tops and jumpers looked cosy. The best number was a juicy looking raspberry wool coat, with an oversized collar and one button.
Sabatini had another interesting range of coats in various fabrics. A fine-knit gold trench looked wearable, as did a tweed one. Skirts and maxi dresses looked great in navy blue, but a fringed cape was very odd. Some garments had leather trims, zips and fur, in a chic biker-look.
The most varied and colourful collection was Ingrid Starnes with bright colours, florals, velvet, lace and silk. A startlingly bright orange-coral long-sleeved high-neck dress began the line, and drew gasps from the audience. A black velvet slim suit was fun with yellow piping on the pockets. Lace crop tops in blue and white looked summery teamed with either a long skirt or velvet shorts. There was a sense of déjà vu when a lime-mustard wool trench and a royal blue wool coat came out. Dresses were knee-length in cream silks, yellow knits and 70s floral.
Cybele’s line was the most futuristic with some models wearing full patterned body suits under black skirts and shift dresses. Colours included black, copper, cream and red, finishing with a shapeless blue satin-silk maxi dress. Velvet featured in nude flared trousers and a black skirt.
Trelise Cooper’s line began with the late Aaliya’s song Try Again which the audience reacted to. As expected the collection was full of gorgeous fabrics including pastel wool tartans, floral silks and brocade. There were cropped jackets, capes and a romantic looking pale pink and black nautical print dress with long sleeves. The audience clapped when a cream silk dress with large black swans on it came out and again for a shimmering sequin and bead-clad cocktail dress with one cream chiffon shoulder.
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