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Red wine: New Zealand vs Australia

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Red wine: Who does it better?

Red wine: Who does it better?

Fri, 23 Jul 2010 9:00a.m.

By Benjamin Quigan

In my profession I often find myself having the same conversation across the bar with patrons.

It will generally start with an Australian guest making the statement, “New Zealand can’t make good red wine”.

Though they will reluctantly admit New Zealand produces amongst the best Sauvignon Blanc in the world, more often than not the conversation ends with, “you just can’t do reds like us, so you shouldn’t bother”.

This statement never surprises me. But during a recent conversation, it got me thinking.

Rivalry between New Zealand and our neighbours across the ditch is common in sport – both the players and the fans – but in my opinion, the same can be said for wine.

Especially red wine.

Australia’s warm climate produces some great full-bodied red wine – in particular Shiraz.

Few will dispute that Australia can produce outstanding Shiraz. It is the most planted grape in all of Australia and its most successful.

The most notable Shiraz regions are

  • Barossa Valley in South Australia - a full-bodied, ripe Shiraz.
  • Coonawarra in South Australia – a warmer, spicy Shiraz
  • Hunter Valley in New South Wales – a warm, earthy Shiraz
  • Clare Valley in South Australia – a strong, aromatic Shiraz
  • McLaren Vale in South Australia – a dark, peppery, chocolate Shiraz

The most popular winemakers in Australian Shiraz would have to be Penfolds.

The Penfolds Grange is, in my opinion, Australia’s best red wine. It is a blend of Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Bottles of the grange are highly prized by wine collectors and bottles will often sell for thousands of dollars or more.

Of course, you don’t need to spend anywhere near that to enjoy a Penfolds Shiraz. There is a range of different bins, ranging in price from around $15.

So what about New Zealand?

Early in New Zealand’s wine history the low annual sunshine discouraged the planting of many red varieties.

However our climate and soil is great for one grape in particular – Pinot Noir – a fussy grape, which is difficult to grow for many reasons.

The problem with many countries attempting Pinot Noir is that the climate is too warm, resulting in over ripe grapes. But if the site is too cold the result will be under-ripe grapes. It’s a difficult balance.

Pinot Noir is the most widely plated red variety in New Zealand and our Pinots rival the best in the world.

The most notable Pinot Noir regions are:

  • Central Otago
  • Martinborough
  • Marlborough (to a lesser extent)

For a cheaper alternative, try the Te Tera Pinot Noir - the second label to the Martinborough vineyard.

So to revisit the Australian, “you can’t do reds like us so you shouldn’t bother”.

In my opinion, it is partly true - we cannot.

We don’t have the climate, meaning our reds will never be as bold and intense as our neighbours.

However not all reds need to be so bold.

New Zealand Pinots can be stunning and world class - just like an Australian Shiraz.

Why not try one of these New Zealand Pinot Noirs

  • Akarua (Central Otago)
  • Amisfield (Central Otago)
  • Ata Rangi (Martinborough)
  • Martinborough vineyard (Martinborough)
  • Mt Difficulty (Central Otago)

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Comments [12]

Prof
21 Aug 2010 4:04a.m.

Visited "Messenger" vineyard in Stillwater NZ with its first Bordeaux style Malbec, Cab Fr, Merlot. Coleraine was a yard behind, Providence 02 gave it a good run but be afraid my dear Australians, be very afraid! It is genuiely exceptional!

Kevin Oldfield
04 Aug 2010 5:54p.m.

I am an Aussie and I tried a bottle of Hugo McLarren Vale Shiraz and a bottle of Toi Toi Central Otago pinot over the weekend. And guess what i preferred best, the more delicate Pinot. Toi Toi is not a well known winery in NZ as it exports mainly to Aussie but I reckon it came out on top. This is a top quality pinot Noir at a very very reasonable price. I'd recommend you try it.

Mike
27 Jul 2010 10:13p.m.

I agree with Grant. Most of these comments have totally missed the point of the writers fair and well balanced article. Both NZ and OZ make some good red wine. Enjoy all of it.

Paul Garner
26 Jul 2010 4:20p.m.

The NZ pinots are great although Pinot is not a big fave of mine. I love the big muscular Barossa shiraz's and the more subtle yet still full flavoured straight Grenache from the Florieu peninsula Sth Aust. Shiraz is certainly originally a desert plant from the Middle East and suits our climate being 70% desert.

Old Coach is my favourite NZ pinot well priced and full of flavour much better than most of the Aussie stuff bar Tasmania which is on a par I reckon. Similar climatic conditions and terroir if you will. I think only a pretty ignorant Aussie would say the type of things mentioned in the article, similar to what a Frenchman would say about Aussie wine, touche.

Go the Wallabies Sat night!!!
Zoob

Phil
24 Jul 2010 2:10p.m.

Aus Shiraz can be overcooked and way too alcoholic - like blackberry jam laced with meths. Some clock in at 17%.
Our Gimblett Syrahs show much more softness and class.

Grant
24 Jul 2010 1:53p.m.

Peter & Keith: I think if you read the article you will see the writer has not said NZ CAN'T DO red wines well. In fact the last line in his article suggests we CAN compete with our neighbours across the ditch. I agree with what what he has said - Australians love to tell Kiwis we can't make a decent red wine. Which, given the differences in our climate etc, in some cases we can't. BUT that doesn't mean we can't make our OWN red wine which is, in a lot of ways, BETTER.

benny
24 Jul 2010 11:25a.m.

I know which I prefer being 12000miles away and that is
Kiwi wines

Frieda Henskens
23 Jul 2010 10:10p.m.

As a naturalised Aussie from New Zealand making wine in Tasmania - in Australia there are far too many boring big blousey shiraz and cabernets - straight varietals and blends and far too many folk trying to build Pinots like the former - where's the value add in that. I'm trying to develop a Tasmanian style of sparkling that speaks of place (oops sorry naughty french word without imitating the french) I think NZ is further down that path plus in the understanding that the consumer can't be expected to pay a premium for our wine without a corresponding premium quality. Unfortunately the high quality sector is still too small and try drinking village wine as your travel (cycle) through france it may not sustain an entire industry.

Mani
23 Jul 2010 5:45p.m.

Aussies love blowing through their nose

peter mcdonald
23 Jul 2010 3:23p.m.

I agree with Keith. Sure we don't make big jammy shiraz but NZ does make elegant and long lived syrah. Also, re other red wines what about the nicely balanced Bordeaux red styles coming out of Hawkes Bay and Waiheke. Has the writer tried Sacred Hill Helmsman, Mills Reef Elspeth, Trinity Hill Gimblett or Blake Family let alone TeMata Coleraine, Esk Valley, Villa Maria, Obsidian etc. etc

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